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Trip Report #8: The British Virgin IslandsFiled from Jost Van Dyke, British Virgin Islands18 26. 0 N 64 45.0 WMarch 6, 2006
Photo: Customs House at Jost Van Dyke After Alex, Rob & Anastasia left, we motored around the corner from the Sapphire Beach Marina to anchor in the harbor at Red Hook. We packed up the computer and took the dinghy into the American Yacht Harbor complex, where we ordered ice cream cones at Cold Stone Creamery, sat at a table there, and connected by Wi-Fi to the internet. This seems almost magical to us. We were able to conduct all of our business, there was a good connection, and there was no fee. We left after lunch, headed for Jost Van Dyke, where we were going to finally catch up with a great couple, Becky & George on Sirius - friends we met in the Mediterranean, who had been traveling pretty much the same route we've taken, although they had made it farther west, all the way to Bonaire. We could also check in with BVI Customs at Jost Van Dyke. We pulled into the harbor there and anchored in 40 feet of water, quite far out into the harbor to catch the breeze and be out of the range of the no-see'ums. We had a great time catching up with Becky and George over a really tasty spaghetti dinner on their boat, a beautiful Hylas 55. We also got to catch up with Maestro, their very sweet and beautiful Whippet. We commiserated with each other about our rough passage north from Venezuela. And all of us agreed that we'd rather cross an ocean again than bash into wind and waves as we had on our trip from Venezuela. They left the next day and we were happy to hear that other friends, Paul & Joan on Incognito, whom we also met in the Mediterranean, were on their way to Jost from Maya Cove. We spent another fine evening catching up with old friends. We went ashore the next day and little had changed on Jost Van Dyke. Foxy's restaurant has expanded and there are a few more tourist shops, but it is very much the same as it was 30 years ago. There are no moorings there and the holding is only fair, so anchoring requires some care - just as it did way back then.
Photo: The dinghy dock at Foxy's, Jost Van Dyke
Photo: Tom & Paul do Wi-Fi at Foxy´s, Jost Van Dyke
Photo: Starboard Home (port side of the 4-master) anchored in Jost Van Dyke on an unusually cloudy day
Photo: Peg at the helm, leaving Jost Van Dyke We left Jost Van Dyke and sailed to Norman's Island, where we took a mooring ($20) and again had dinner with Sirius and Incognito. The anchorage at Norman's island has definitely changed. Most of it was covered with moorings, which we decided was a good thing. The last time we were there, it was crowded and windy (usual conditions at Norman's) and there were several boats dragging through the anchorage during the night. Our British friends refer to the resulting activity as "pajama parties".
Photo: Sirius on a mooring at Norman's Island, BVI As we were leaving Norman's Island to go to Road Town, we noticed that the engine was overheating, so we turned off the engine and sailed back to pick up the nearest mooring. That morning, Tom had found a break in the raw water pickup hose at the point where it was attached by a hose clamp. He had shortened the hose and reattached it. When the engine overheated, he changed the impeller, but really felt that the problem was an airlock in the line. When we increased the throttle, we could see a gush of water come suddenly through the water-cooled exhaust outlet, and everything worked fine after that. At Road Town, we picked up a mooring near the Fort Burt Marina and spent a very rolly night. The next day, we went into the Village Cay Marina so we could do laundry and get provisions. In addition to Ample Hamper (slightly expensive), we shopped Bobby's supermarket, which is within walking distance. The store provided free transportation for us and our groceries back to the marina. We also found another small grocery, called "Everything British" that stocks a good selection of British delicacies and supplies. George recommended a very good wine shop, called "Tiko", near the Moorings (Sunsail) complex that carried a great selection of wine at good prices. We had one last dinner with George & Becky before we each went our separate ways - they to St. Martin and we to the Turks & Caicos.
Photo: Becky and George at Village Cay Marina, Road Town
Photo: Tom, Becky, George & Peg in Road Town After leaving Road Town, we motored on a very light air day to Lee Bay on Great Camanoe Island. It is just as beautiful as it was many years ago. The snorkeling isn't quite as good as the coral has deteriorated somewhat and there seem to be fewer fish, though still plenty and a good variety. While here we have checked in with Herb Hilgenberger and look forward to having him follow us on the 400 mile trip to the Turks and Caicos.
Photo: The saddle in Lee Bay looking toward Marina Cay
Photo: View from the boat in Lee Bay looking toward Great Guana and Trellis Bay We plan to leave tomorrow to return to Jost Van Dyke to check out of the BVI and stage up for the trip to Turks & Caicos. 73s, 88s, Love & Hugs Peg & Tom Maynard aboard s/v Starboard Home
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Grand Daughters' web pages: Anna's Home Page, Anastasia's Home Page Isabelle's Home Page
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