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Trip Report #5: Northeast to AntiguaFiled from Antigua17 00.30 N 61 45.74 WFebruary 6, 2006
Photo: Tom rests on an ancient anchor in English Harbor, Antigua Wow! Have we had a rough time getting to Antigua. On our way to Los Testigos, Tortuga and Los Roques, we kept getting favorable currents that sped us along at a good clip. Sometimes we did not want the assist, as it was pushing us to a landfall in the dark, way before we wanted to get there. Well, guess what. Those currents, generally very helpful on the way to Los Roques, were still there, and made going east slow and difficult work. On January 26, we moved the boat to Francisquis, an island northeast of Gran Roques and next to the North Channel leading from Los Roques to the Caribbean Sea. We anchored inside the cay between two reefs. The next morning at first light, we picked our way back out of Francisquis between the reefs in a very scary and slow trip, dependent on our memory of where the reefs were located when we came in the night before. We finally made it out into the North Channel and headed for open water.
Photo: Leaving Gran Roques behind us at sunrise Jan. 26 Out of the North Channel, we headed on a northeast course for the Leeward Islands. The wind was 24 to 28 knots and the waves were 10-12 feet and coming straight at us. We were using the staysail and most of the main, with a slight bag in both to give us drive over the waves - and sailing well. Later, during the night, the wind was up and down and the waves were about the same as during the day. We started getting an adverse current and were increasingly headed. We decided that, since we needed some provisions and would like to see Margarita, we would head there. We arrived at the western coast of Isla Margarita near sunset on the second day out from Los Roques and sailed into the Margarita Channel, where - oh, blessed relief - the waves and wind subsided in the lee of the big island. In the dark of the night, we negotiated the 25 miles of waterway on our way to the anchorage at Porlamar. There were many fishermen in the channel, working away in their dark-colored, pointy-prowed pirogues. Fortunately for us, the sardines were not running, as the fishermen then use long nets to seine them from the water and the nets criss-cross the channel, posing a hazard to boats as well as sardines. Most sailors avoid the area during the sardine run. The fishermen had bright lights, which they would flash as we approached. This was a big help to us, as they could not be seen on radar or by the naked eye. There were also several ferries crossing the channel, easily seen, but often requiring a change of our course to get out of their way. We finally made it to the anchorage at Porlamar at 1:45 am and found a good spot to drop the anchor in 20 feet of water. We got the boat reasonably organized, set an anchor light, had a shower and a snack and fell into the bunk - and it felt so good. We found Lynne and David, on Wild Orchid, in the anchorage the next day and had cocktails on their beautiful boat that evening. Lynne told us about the free bus, which takes cruisers from Marina Juan to the Sambil shopping mall every Wednesday. The bus is part of the services offered by Marina Juan, who asks only that cruisers give a small tip to the bus staff, who box up and organize the groceries purchased by the cruisers. Marina Juan is a great resource for cruisers. There is a dinghy dock and a dumpster for trash. Laundry is picked up here and returned the same day, washed, dried and nicely folded, for 2500 Bs (Bolivars), or a little over $1.00, per kilo. Juan Baro, of Marina Juan is an agent for entry into and exit from Venezuela and very efficiently handles all the paper work involved. He also exchanges money, arranges tours, taxis and airline flights and seems to be able to supply anything cruisers need. Cruisers gather in the evening on Juan's terrace for a drink or just to chat - a nice, low-key social time. After provisioning at the well-stocked Sambil shopping mall, Lynne and Peg took a taxi (about $2.00) to the Mercardo Conejero (literally, the Rabbit Hutch Market). The Rabbit Market is a bazaar-like structure with individual vendor's stalls, and the vendors sell clothing, jewelry, art, food, and lots of local crafts. It was an interesting trip and we bought, among other things, some of the pearl jewelry for which the island is famous. Since we were already checked out of Venezuela, we had only 48 hours to stay in Margarita. Nobody seems to check on that, but we were anxious to move up north and head toward the Virgin Islands, where we were expecting to meet Alexandra, Rob & Anastasia on February 18. We said our good-byes to David & Lynne, put the dinghy on the deck, and set off the next morning, January 31, for as far north in the Leeward Islands as we could get.
Photo: Tom, preparing to leave Marina Juan's dinghy dock We left Margarita at 8 am on Jan. 31. After passing Farallon Blanco and the northeast tip of Isla Margarita, the waves were 8-10 feet and the wind was 15-20 knots from the northeast, but forecast to veer east and stay easterly for the next few days. We were hoping that the easterly wind would give us a good sail to the Leewards.
Photo: Farallon Blanco, with Margarita in the background The wind continued ENE, but as we approached Los Testigos, the strong west-setting current took us 30 miles west of Los Testigos, despite our best efforts to counter it. We knew that the best way out of a current was to go as fast as possible across it, rather than buck into it and go slow. So that is what we did. We stayed close-hauled, just a bit cracked off, and went for speed. We did not, however, get out of that current until late the next day. By that time, we really had some easting to make up. Finally, we were out of the current and the winds and waves had subsided. We were able to make our way toward the north and east, occasionally using the motor to push us in the lighter winds, which dipped to 12 knots for short periods. We made good time during the night. On February 2, we decided we could make landfall at Antigua and continued on our course toward there. During the night, we encountered many squally rain showers, some with winds of 35 knots. The waves were from the northeast, but there were swells building from the east. Our Autohelm 4400 decided that it was too much to steer and we hand-steered for a while. We finally deployed the Monitor wind vane and "Bob" (our nickname for the wind vane) steered until we approached the island of Antigua. On February 3, the showers and heavy winds continued as we passed Montserrat and until we were 10 miles southwest of Antigua. As we closed on the island, the sun came out and it was a sparkly, high-pressure kind of day. The wind was 20 knots from the east and the waves were 6-8 feet. We could see a very pretty Dutch schooner tacking up the shore toward English harbor.
Photo: Tacking toward Antigua At 5 pm, we entered English Harbor, Antigua, and anchored in Freeman's Bay, being careful to keep out of the fairway.
Photo: Remains of Fort Barclay at entrance to English Harbor
Photo: Yachts anchored in Freeman's Bay, Antigua English Harbor and Falmouth Harbor, so close that one can walk between them, are steeped in English history. They were recognized by England as two of few harbors in the Caribbean that were defensible as well as close to the trade winds. The two harbors are now managed by the National Parks Authority and are recognized as a major yachting center. Work on the dockyard was started in 1723 and completed in 1745. The dockyard is now called Nelson's Dockyard, after the British Naval hero who served here in 1784. There has been quite a bit of work done to restore some of the older buildings on the grounds of the dockyard/marina, and it is a prime tourist site. It is also host to the Antigua Race Week and the Antigua Classic Boat Regatta, as well as many other events.
Photo: The Customs House and Officers' Quarters, Antigua
Photo: Sail lockers, under renovation, Antigua
Photo: The old slipway at the Admiral's House The harbors attract classic and megayachts and it is fun to see wonderful classic sailing vessels moored next to modern ocean-going motor yachts.
Photo: Crew working on one of the classic yachts
Photo: A variety of vessels moored in English Harbor While we were there, English Harbor was host to an Ocean Rowing Regatta. The intrepid rowers started out, in their specialized ocean-going rowing boats, from La Gomera, Canary Islands, on November 30, 2005. The first boat arrived in English Harbor on January 8, 2006, and they have been arriving regularly since then. The 25 foot boats are usually crewed by a pair of rowers who take turns rowing in 2 hour shifts. They have a small enclosed cabin for sleeping which is waterproof, but there is no enclosure over the rest of the boat. Dehydrated or shelf-stable, prepackaged meals, chocolate, and energy packed food bars and drinks supply the crews' nutritional needs on the trip and they usually do not lose weight. The boats are powered by solar energy, which runs a watermaker, GPS, radio, and an instrument, similar to an EPIRB, which has a built-in GPS. Data from that instrument is picked up by satellite and the rowers' positions are reported to a central location.
Photo: Some of the rowing boats at the dinghy dock in English Harbor There are two large yachts that criss-cross the area in which the rowers' are located, who are there for safety, supplies and any needed assistance. Two boats are unassisted, one of whom is a single-handing rower, who is now 20 miles from English Harbor and due in at midnight tonight (February 6). There is another single-hander, a woman, who still has 1000 miles to go, making her way slowly, but surely. Last night, February 5, a crew of 4 young women, rowing the largest boat (29 feet) in the regatta, entered the harbor just after sunset, to the sounds of horns tooting, whistles blowing and fireworks, a show that is put on for every arrival in the regatta.
Photo: Women rowers complete their transatlantic voyage In addition to exploring the historic buildings in the harbor and watching the finishers in the Transatlantic Rowing Regatta, we're doing all of the things necessary to continue on toward the Virgin Islands. Conscientious boat maintenance continues: changing the engine and transmission oil, replacing an impeller, fixing a leak in the water maker, and checking the backstay and other parts of the rigging. We will leave Antigua in the next day or two.
Photo: Tom, pretty happy with his role as Chief of the Engine Department and with his special hat, which goes with the job. The next leg of our journey should be easier, because we'll be traveling from the east toward the northwest. It should be a reach, much more enjoyable than beating to weather. 73s, 88s, love & hugs - Peg & Tom Maynard aboard s/v Starboard Home
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Grand Daughters' web pages: Anna's Home Page, Anastasia's Home Page Isabelle's Home Page
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