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Trip Report # 7-2004: The Canary IslandsFiled from Puerto de Mogan, Gran Canaria27 49N 15 45.8ENovember 8, 2004
Photo: From the Puerto Calero Marina on Lanzarote The Canary Archipelago consists of 7 islands that were once physically a part of the continent of Africa. The islands' notable features come from volcanic activity, with new craters being formed as recently as 1971 on the island of La Palma. Water in the islands is very scarce. La Palma has a comparative abundance of water; Hierro, Tenerife and Gran Canaria are semi-desert; and Graciosa, Lanzarote, Fuerteventura are entirely barren. Agriculture is dependent on complex irrigation systems, yet extensive banana plantations thrive; and the resourceful Canarian farmers produce vegetables, avocados, grapes and a variety of tropical fruits, sugar, tobacco, wine and coffee for their own consumption and for export. The islands were settled in the second century B.C. by people with both Cro-Magnon and Mediterranean characteristics, who came from Africa. They were tall, fair-skinned, some with blonde hair and blue eyes,and were cave dwelling. At the south end of Tenerife, there are still people who live in homes that are built into the hillside into existing cave formations. The indigenous people, called Gaunches, although still living in the stone age, were praised for their intelligence by the Spanish who arrived on the islands in the middle ages. The Gaunch culture, however, was virtually wiped out after the arrival of the Spanish conquistodors. There are several legends about how the islands got their name. They are probably not named after the canary, the little yellow finches which migrate through the islands and breed here. Rather, the birds were most likely named after the islands. One legend has it that the name derived from the whistling language used by the people to communicate over the long distances in the mountains. The whistling, although dying as a method of communication, can still be heard on La Gomera - and these people whistle at ear-splitting decibels! In all probability, the islands were named after the native dogs (Canes is the Spanish word for dogs) that were found by the first Spanish to arrive here.
Photo: The beach at Graciosa We spent several days on Graciosa, anchored in the bay at Playa Francesca, at the foot of a major volcano. We were able to land our dinghy on the beach and walk into town along the beach and on foot paths and on tracks made by Land Rovers. There are no roads on Graciosa and the walk into the small town at La Sociedad takes about 40 minutes. We were lucky enough to have a local man give us a ride into the town, but it was a wild ride through the dunes. Fortunately, there is very little traffic.
Photo: Peg, Tom, Barb & Don (Lutana II) on Graciosa. The town has a marina, with floating finger piers, at a cost of about 5 euros a day for a 12 meter boat. There is no electricity, and water, available on the ferry dock, must be carried by jerry jug. There is a well-stocked supermarket, a butcher shop, a bakery, a post office, an internet shop, phone service and phone cards for sale, and several good restaurants. The ferry goes daily to Arrecife on Lanzarote, where chandleries and hardware stores are available, and costs 13 euros round trip. The people are so friendly and welcoming. They all, regardless of age or gender, wear little hats that look like upside down flower pots to protect them from the sun. We did not see those hats on any of the other islands and we missed an opportunity to get a picture of them.
Photo: Sea Song (white boat, crew Robin & Rodney) at anchor in Graciosa The cruisers in the marina had all shared the experience of a long Atlantic passage to get there, and the cruising community was close-knit and supportive. The social life was very active with frequent barbecues on the beach. There were also many cruising children who were being home-schooled. Their homework assignments, involving dramatic presentations or musical events, often provided entertainment for the adults. Graciosa was indeed the most unusual place in the island chain. We were sorry we were unable to spend more time there. We had made arrangements to have our absentee ballots for the US presidential election sent to a marina on the island of Lanzarote. After leaving Graciosa, we sailed to Puerto Calero marina to await the arrival of our ballots. Lanzerote is one of the large, barren islands, dotted with volcanoes and covered with sand, rock and pumice. The only growth on the island consists of the ornamental plants and flowers planted and carefully tended around homes and resorts. The barren landscape, however stark, is appealing and very beautiful. Lanzarote is one of the islands that is making great efforts to control the growth of resort building and tourism, through legislation and example. A well known Canarian artist, Cezar Manrique, promoted and lead the effort to keep the islands as unspoilt as possible. His art and particularly his sculpture appears in most towns on the island and throughout the Canary Islands.
Photo: Sculpture by Cezar Manrique, at Puerto Calero, Lanzarote At Lanzarote we rented a car to tour the island. We went to Arrecife, the main city, and shopped in the chandleries and in the large supermarkets. The port of Naos has a large, well-protected anchorage, close to the main shopping areas of Arrecife, and is an excellent place from which cruisers can reprovision. While in Arrecife, we met Val and Tony, friends on Molluka II, who had come over from Graciosa on the ferry for the day. We drove on winding roads out to the north end of the island to the Mirador del Rio, one of the most beautiful lookout points in the Canaries. It was once used to warn of approaching pirate ships and was the site of a gun emplacement during the Spanish- American war. Cezar Manrique built balconies, curving walls and a restaurant with huge picture windows here. The view of Graciosa and the straits of El Rio is spectacular. The cost to visit the structure was 4.70 euros per person, which we thought was a bit expensive, but which we were happy to pay.
Photo: Cliffs made by lava flows, from Mirador del Rio
Photo: Graciosa and the straits of El Rio from Mirador del Rio, Lanzarote Puerto Calero was a very nice marina with a helpful staff, but there was no community there. There were a few shops and a supermarket and several restaurants at the marina, and surrounding the marina were condos and resort apartments and hotels. The cost for our boat was 24 euros a day, including electricity, water and taxes. Photo: The "town" above Puerto Calero While we were there, a big regatta took place that included quite a few big racing boats as well as lots of local boats in a PHRF fleet. It was fun to watch them prepare for the day's racing and to watch them come in - with some happy crews and some not so happy.
Photo: Preparing for a day of racing(The MoviStar boat, Telefonica, won the regatta)
Photo: Smaller boat, but enthusiastic crew
Photo: The only all-female crew in the regatta Our neighbor on the dock at the marina was Jim Nash, a British retiree who now runs a sport fishing business in Lanzarote. He has a wealth of knowledge about fishing and gave us a reel, already wound with line and a lure. Tom mounted the reel on the stern pulpit and we are now ready to catch fish.
Photo: Fisherman Extraordinaire, Jim Nash, with Tom at Puerto Calero
Photo: Ready to fish and ready to barbecue the catch
Photo: Caught: One baby tuna After our absentee ballots were sent back to the US, we left Lanzarote and began an overnight sail to Santa Cruz on the island of Tenerife. We put out our fishing line during the sail, and using Jim's reel, lure and advice, we did catch a baby tuna, which we returned to the sea to create other little tunas. Hopefully, we'll soon catch the "big one". Next report will tell you about Tenerife and La Gomera Hasta Luego, Peg & Tom s/v Starboard Home
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Grand Daughters' web pages: Anna's Home Page, Anastasia's Home Page Isabelle's Home Page
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