Trip Report #3-2004: Palma to Barcelona

Filed from Gibraltar

36  09  N     005  21E

September 23, 2004

Photo:  Tom and Peg in Barcelona

    We filled up with diesel in Palma at a cost of $3.85 per gallon, really not bad as fuel prices go here.  Our rerigging work had been completed; we had a new whisker pole for downwind sailing; we had parts to repair the watermaker and the refrigeration system; and we had a new Toshiba computer to replace the HP that died before Peg's trip home.  

    Tom had been using our second PC, a Dell, which died while he was in Porto Colom.  He bought a replacement, an Acer, in Palma.  This computer "speaks" Spanish, but it does everything we need it to do, and when Tom gets a minute, he'll replace the operating system with a more familiar English-speaking one.

    On the way into the Mediterranean, we spent quite a lot of time in Spain, but we missed seeing Barcelona and promised ourselves that we would stop there on the way out.  So, on September 5, we set sail for Barcelona, 27 hours and 137 nautical miles away.

    We motor-sailed most of the way to the northeast corner of Mallorca, but after passing Cabo Formentera, the wind picked up and we had a nice reach.  Fifteen miles out of Barcelona we approached a long, cigar-shaped, puffy white cloud, that slowly descended closer to the water and become very dark as we neared it.  It looked very ominous and we had heard stories about the fierceness of cigar-shaped clouds which portend very heavy winds from the east.  We took in the yankee and a little of the mainsail, prepared for anything.  As we passed under it, absolutely nothing happened and we came out on the other side of it into a bright, sunshiney day, feeling like fools.  Oh, well, better safe than sorry.

    Coming into Barcelona Harbor is exciting.  It is lined with restaurants, an aquarium, an Imax theater and Cinema, sculpture, beautiful buildings and park-like spaces where families were walking, enjoying the day. This is a vibrant city and its' harbor and waterfront confirm it and welcome the visiting sailor.

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Photo:  Statue of Christopher Columbus overlooks Port Vell, Barcelona

    We pulled into a berth on a finger pier at Port Vell Marina, in the heart of Barcelona.  As we pulled into C dock, we passed boats we have met in the past:  Glen Farr, Windscape, and Boundless. The owners of Glen Farr and Windscape were not on board, but we did get to catch up with Rudy on Boundless.  And later during our stay, Britt and Michael on Laudance returned to their boat and we spent a nice evening with them.  It always amazes us when we meet again with cruisers we've seen in far away ports - the world of the cruising sailor is indeed a small one.

Photo:  Tom at the lobster sculpture on the waterfront promenade

    For 16 euros each, we rode on a double-decker bus and got a guided tour around the city.  We were able to get on and off whenever we wanted to for the entire day, touring the sites we wanted to see, often with a free or discounted pass from the bus company.  We considered it a bargain and it saved Tom's feet.

    Barcelona is famous for the works of many well-known artists, chief among them Antoni Gaudi, a leading exponent of a new style of art called Modernisme, a variant of Art Nouveau, which arose in Barcelona.  Gaudi was born in Tarragona in 1852 and studied at the Barcelona School of Architecture.  His work was extremely original and innovative, often inspired by nature. Examples of his work exist throughout the city and within the Parc Guell.

Photo:  Gaudi´s Casa Batilo´

Photo:  Gaudi's La Pedrera, and the "triumph of the curve"

Photo:  Tom with the famous dragon in the Parc Guell

Photo:  Peg at the Hall of a Hundred Columns, Parc Guell

    Gaudi's most ambitious work is the Sagrada Familia, Europe's most unusual church.  Gaudi lived on the site for 16 years and is buried in the crypt.  At the time of his death, only one spire had been completed, but work continues toward completion today, financed by public subscription.

Photo:  Spires of the Sagrada Familia

    Our bus tour gave us the opportunity to see other examples of  beautiful architecture in Barcelona.  We loved the balconies.           

Photos:  Balconies of Barcelona

    Parks and fountains abound and add to the beauty and pleasures of the city.

Photo:  Peg at a fountain in Barcelona

Photo:  Tom at the Palau National, near the Placa de Espanya

    And of course, we did some rambling on La Rambla, a famous and historic avenue leading to the sea, and a favorite walking street, with many restaurants, shops and street buskers.

Photo:  A Barcelona street entertainer on La Rambla

He changes position each time a coin is put into his cup.

    After we had marveled at the sights of Barcelona and sampled tapas at many of the outdoor cafes, we checked the weather in the Gulf of Lion.  We had not yet spent any time in France and did not want to leave the Mediterranean without having done so.  Since the weather was not good for sailing there, we decided to rent a car and at least see some of Provence.  We arranged to rent a car from Damacar, an agency recommended by the marina management.  We investigated and found that they had the best prices in Barcelona and would deliver and pick up the car at the end of our dock.

    Next Report:  A quick trip into France - C'est magnifique!

                        Adios, Familia & Amigos-

                        Peg & Tom

                        On the road to France!

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