Trip Report #5-2003:  Rendezvous in Stari Grad

Filed in Split, Croatia

43  30.3 N     16  26.4 E

July 3, 2003

Photo:  The harbor in Stari Grad, island of Hvar, Croatia

    As we travel around the Mediterranean, on most days we check in with the Mediterranean Cruisers' Net, a single sideband radio net devoted to providing weather information, helping with safety, security and emergency issues, and facilitating communication and information exchange for cruisers.  We have met a fraction of the people who check in on a routine basis, and so we really looked forward to getting to Croatia in time to attend what is now becoming a yearly rendezvous for the Cruisers' Net.

Photo:  Sailing toward Stari Grad, Hvar, Croatia

    We left Montenegro and sailed in light air to the very pretty and protected bay at Molunata.  There is an old observation tower overlooking the harbor, which gave us the feeling that Big Brother was watching.  We later learned that it is no longer being used.  Molunata is a vacation resort town with a restaurant and a small store to buy bread and a few other provisions.  We did not go into town, because we had not yet checked into Croatia and were flying the Q flag.  We were, however, able to get a cool swim in clean, clear water.  Later in the evening, friends George & Becky and crew, Caz, on Sirius, came in and anchored, as did the British yacht, Casa Tu.

Photo:  Sirius at anchor in Molunata, Croatia

    The next day, we entered the harbor of Gruz, within walking distance of the old city of Dubrovnik, and tied bow to the wall with Joe and Ildi on Right Choice, a Slocum 43.  We checked in with the harbormaster, Customs and harbor police, and paid 1,637 Kuna (the monetary unit in Croatia) or about $273 USD for a cruising permit for one year! We keep reminding ourselves that we are only going to do this once.

Photo:  Part of the fortress surrounding Dubrovnik's Old City

Photo:  Bridge to the Gate of the Old City, Dubrovnik

Photo:  Wide streets within the medieval fortress, Dubrovnik

Photo:  Tom takes a rest stop at the Onofrio Fountain, built in 1438

     We had a great time walking through the old walled city of Dubrovnik, with it's great wide walkways of stone polished smooth by centuries of traffic.  The walkways and squares were lined with small and interesting boutiques.  We found a navigational guide for Croatian ports in a little book store and considered ourselves fortunate.  This guide is published by the Lexicographical Institute in Zagreb and, in addition to excellent descriptions of the harbors in Croatia, contains a map that helps to provide an overview of the entire Dalmatian coast, which is great for developing a cruising plan, and something that is missing from the Imray Adriatic Pilot. 

Photo:  Grand buildings within the Old City, Dubrovnik

    As we walked through the old city, people approached us to give us information about their restaurants, most of which were located above the main street in little passageways.  We decided on a restaurant called Ragusa's, which turned out to be excellent. We went back the following night and had their oysters on the half shell.  The oysters were from nearby Ston and were excellent, salty and very flavorful - and about a dollar apiece.  We're only going to do this once!

Photo:  Tom, Peg, Joe and Ildi (Right Choice) at Ragusa's, Dubrovnik 

    We spent 2 days in Dubrovnik before setting off to Stari Grad on the island of Hvar. As we approached the wide channel between the island and the smaller off-lying islands, the wind increased to 20 knots on the nose.  We began to tack with main and yankee through the channel, when we noticed a 44 foot charter boat crossing tacks with us.  At one point, as we approached them, they tacked and slapped a lee bow on us. So - okay, it was now a race.  We tacked off, took a lift into shore until we got a header and then tacked out.  When we met they were still ahead of us, but we were closer. We noticed that they were pointing higher than we were in by the main island and they stayed in, taking 2 more tacks along the shore, but as we approached the small islands, we could see a lot more wind pressure and stayed out as long as we could before tacking back.  When we met them again, they were 3 boat lengths behind us and we were feeling quite smug.  At that point, the wind diminished to about 10 knots and they, being a lighter boat, started to catch us.  Tom said, "OK, let's put out the whomper" (an allusion to a particular scene in the movie, WIND) and we quickly launched the staysail.  Well, maybe it's not a whomper, but it is a little more sail area to catch wind, and we stayed ahead of them.  I think the crews on both boats had a good time with our little "race".

    The term, Stari Grad, simply means "old city" and so there are fascinating Stari Grads, with their castles and fortresses and medieval cities all over Croatia.  The Stari Grad on Hvar has a fairly big harbor with room to moor at the wall and room to anchor.  We chose to anchor and spent a quiet first night.  

     The next morning, a bus tour, at a cost of 320 kuna, about $26.50 for each of us, took us to several of the smaller villages and harbors on the island and to a winery for a wine tasting.  We were enthralled with the scenery on the island - beautiful, green, with quaint villages of stone houses and tiled roofs and always a church in the middle of the village.

Photo:  Croatian countryside, island of Hvar

Photo:  Tasting the delicious Croatian wine, casked in oak barrels from Bourdeau, France

Photo:  Mediterranean Cruisers' Net back to harbor after touring Hvar

Photo:  Raewyn, Trevor (Narissa, NZ), Russell, Christine (Christine Anne, AUS) returning from tour

    There were many activities going on during the day, including chart information exchanges, book swaps, games, a picnic on the beach, all giving us a chance to become acquainted and put faces with names heard on the net.  A highlight of the rendezvous was a country dinner of island specialties at a home in a mountain village.  It cost about $35 per person and included transportation, an excellent meal, wine and entertainment.  The meal consisted of a starter course of sardines, fish pate and grilled vegetables, a salad and bread, a delicious entree of roasted veal and chicken with potatoes and carrots, and excellent wine. Local musicians entertained us with Croatian folk music.  With the beautiful setting and the good company of other cruisers, the evening could not have been more enjoyable.

Photo: Tari, Frank (Vision, VA), family of Teka III, Mary, Denis (Teka III, Friday Harbor, WA)

Photo: Ron (Gladlee, UK), George, Caz with raised glass (Sirius, OH), Sue, Bob (Rejoice, CO)

Photo:  Julie & Ron (Gladlee of Guernsey)

Photo:  4th & 5th from left - Fred and Sue (Monabar, Poole, UK)

Photo: Hank & Kelley (Horizon, UK)

Photo: 2nd & 3rd from left: Jim & Pat, (Northstar, VA)

Photo:  Salah (Lilyana, Belgium), John, Joan (Seascape,CA), Lilyana

Photo: Nancy (Good Company, TX), Pippa (Venturer, UK), Salah(Lilyana, Belgium), John, Joan (Seascape, CA)

Photo: Joan (Seascape, CA), Lilyana and her aunt, Borka (Lilyana)

Photo:  At head of table: Marvin (Good Company, TX), Tom's head, Nancy (Good Company)

Tom (Starboard Home), Brian (Venturer)  Becky (Sirius), Pippa (Venturer)

Photo: Becky & George with Maestro on Sirius (Cleveland, OH)

Photo:  Salah and Lilyana, Jim & Pat (Northstar) on Lilyana

    A great time was had by everyone at the rendezvous, thanks to the organizing talents of Denis & Mary on Teka III, John & Joan on Seascape, Salah & Lilyana on Lilyana, and Nancy & Marvin on Good Company, and everyone else who worked on it.

                Davidjenje,

                Peg & Tom Maynard

                aboard s/v Starboard Home

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