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Trip Report #12-2002: To Marmaris, to bedFiled from Marmaris, Turkey36 49.1N 28 18.4EOctober 27, 2002
Photo: A hillside in Chios, Greece Yassos, family and friends: The night that John and Freda left found Starboard Home and crew anchored in a small quiet cove on the island of Alonnisos. At 4:30 am the next morning, we were awakened by a sea rolling into the anchorage. We decided to get up, have our coffee and get ready to leave. Our destination was either Skiros or Chios, a little further, depending on weather and our energy level. We were heading southeast, eventually to Kos, where we would check out of Greece and sail to Turkey. The wind, unfortunately, was from the southeast, but was forecast to veer toward the north over the next 12 hours and to build to Force 6 (22-27 knots). Twenty-two to twenty-seven knots on the quarter is very manageable in our boat, and, in fact, Starboard Home really likes that kind of wind. At noon, however, the wind was still on the nose, but only 15-18 knots, and we were tacking by Skiros. It was too early to stop, so, we continued on to Chios, knowing that it would mean sailing through the night, arriving in Chios the next morning. The night sail was very boisterous, with 6-8 ft. waves and 25+ knots on the nose. It was a fairly clear night with a quarter moon and there were many freighters, ferries, and cruise boats to avoid. We had the radar on, which is very helpful in determining how far away other ships are, where their courses will likely take them, and how that will affect us. The expected shift to the north did not occur, so it was a fairly tiring sail. The short, steep waves, typical in the Mediterranean, meant that the motion of the boat was bouncy with a bucking action that was not conducive to sleeping comfortably.
Photo: Sunrise in the Greek Islands, approaching Chios As the sun rose the next morning, the wind lightened a bit and backed enough to give us a close reach and then a broad reach that was really very nice. We arrived in the harbor at Mesta on Chios at 11 am and anchored, protected from a strong south wind which was now forecast, with gusts to Force 8 or 9. We felt fairly secure, went to bed early that night and slept well. At 6:30 am, Tom called out, " Come on, Peg. Our anchor has pulled out and we're dragging." We were, indeed, sideways to the wind, which was really piping up, and drifting sideways down the bay. We immediately got on deck (it was freezing on deck and the wind was blowing 27-30 kts), and retrieved the anchor. Tom was due to report the weather that morning on the Mediterranean Cruisers Net and went below to be sure that the RTTY weather report was coming in clearly. We then decided to go in to a floating dock where some small fishing boats were tied bow to the dock on the north side. The south side of the dock was completely free, but our cruising pilot (guide) had very little information about it. We decided to trust that it was anchored firmly enough to support our 14 tons. As we motored to the dock, a friendly local fisherman came running to take our lines and help us get secured. By the time we got settled, it was time for the Net to start and for Tom to report the weather. As he scrolled the computer to the appropriate part of the weather report, he said into the mike, " This is Tom on Starboard Home. Peg and I are on the Greek island of Chaos this morning." And I wondered if that might be a Freudian slip.
Photo: Starboard Home on a quiet day in Mesta harbor in Chios Later in the morning, the harbormaster on Chios came down to the dock and asked us to come up to his office with our paperwork. We went up and showed him our transit log, passports and ship's documentation. He was the first person to ask to see our transit log since we obtained it in Limnos, a month earlier, and he was flabbergasted that no one else had asked us for it. The instructions in the transit log clearly indicate that we are to have it available to show to officials when they ask for it. It does not indicate that we must go in search of an official in every port to stamp our log. He agreed that was true, stamped it, charged us 10 Euros, and then was very helpful in supplying information about the island. Chios is a beautiful island. Carolyn and Terry, cruisers from Michigan who own a Lord Nelson called "Rhythms", and with whom we chatted on the Net, had recommended that we visit the old town of Mesta while we were on Chios. The old town, about 4 or 5 kilometers from the harbor is one of the most interesting old towns we have seen. It is a walled city with narrow streets laid out in a maze, like a rabbit's warren, in order to confuse attacking enemies. The buildings have short doorways to make it difficult for enemies to enter homes easily and to give homeowners an advantage over a stooping enemy. People live here in close community and many of the homes are being renovated with conscientious attention to the historic detail of the area.
Photo: Tom at one of the gates, an entry point into the old town of Mesta on Chios
Photo: A street in Mesta
Photo: One of the really narrow streets in Mesta
Photo: Another typical street in Mesta People still use donkeys for transport through the city, as well as motorbikes - the donkeys, however, are so much quieter and actually smell better.
Photos: Donkey transportation in Mesta There are many gardens, inside and along the outside of the city where flowers, fruit, lemons, olives and vegetables are grown.
Photo: Tomatoes drying in Mesta
Photo: Lemons in a Mesta garden
Photo: Olives growing in Mesta There was no transportation from the harbor to the town, since the tourist season was at an end, and we resigned ourselves to the walk. But we walked all of about 5 minutes, coming and going, before someone picked us up - and would take no remuneration for it. We enjoyed the people and the beauty of the island and could have stayed longer - had we world enough and time - but we were on our way to Marmaris to Starboard Home's winter berth. And the weather at this time of year can be very unstable. So, we continued on, stopping to anchor overnight at Patmos and then sailing to Kos, where we checked out of Greece. Checking out of Greece cost us $0.88 (!) We had heard lots of horror stories about the high costs associated with checking out, but we decided that we were either very lucky or there were details of the stories that we were not hearing. We left Kos on a beautiful, warm, sunny day and motor sailed the short distance to the Turkish shore, passing lots of charter boats and Turkish gulets, enjoying what could be the last of the good cruising weather.
Photo: Turkish Gulet motoring along the coast near Marmaris We are now in the marina at Marmaris Yat Marin and have signed a 6 month contract at a cost of 1,150 Euros, including hauling and splashing and pressure washing the bottom. We are due to be hauled out on October 31 and in the meantime, we are renewing acquaintances with many of the people we've met over the course of the year and we are doing the many jobs that need to be done to put Starboard Home to bed safely.
Photo: Peg works on a wood refinishing project in Marmaris
Photo: Joe works in the yard on Madrigal, next to Erin O'Lyrr There is lots of activity in the yard - cruisers are a hard-working group and boats need lots of attention. Friends, Joe and Jeannie on Madrigal are doing lots of sanding and painting on their catamaran. Next to them is Erin O'Lyrr, and Jim and Sandy have done lots of work before they left to go home, preparing for painting this spring. It is also fun to watch the new gulets being built here in the yard.
Photos: Gulets being built at Marmaris Yat Marin We have had a very good cruising season this year, but now look forward to getting home and being with our children, grandchildren, family and friends. When we come back in the spring, our plan is to sail in the Adriatic Sea for the summer, particularly in Croatia and Venice. And that is firm. Until next season - Allahaismarladik, Peg & Tom aboard s/v Starboard Home
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