Trip Report #8-2002: The Ukraine Part I
Filed from Eregli, Turkey
41 16.9 N 31 24.1 E
August 20, 2002
Photo: Foros church, near Balaclava, Ukraine
We arrived in Odessa at 1:30 am and tied to the wall in the largest one of only two marinas in the entire Ukraine. We had contacted the Port of Odessa harbor control 5 miles out and were given permission to enter this busy harbor. He spoke English well and contacted the marina captain for us, who sent out a boat to lead us in. The Customs and Immigration officials came to the boat and began the process of checking us into the Ukraine. For the first time, we had to submit a cargo declaration and a health report, testifying that we had no dead or dying people on board, no dead or dying rats (presumably, live, healthy rats were okay), and carried no bubonic plaque or other deadly diseases. We also had to write a letter promising that we would leave with all of the people and equipment that we had on the boat. After reams of paperwork passed hands and much official stamping took place, we finally retired to the bunk at 3:30 am. Our visa to the Ukraine, a seamen's visa obtained in Istanbul, cost us $270 and is good for 6 months. In order to qualify for it, we had to get a test for HIV, which cost us $40. We promised ourselves that we would see some of the Ukraine.
In the morning, we could not believe our eyes! There was the core of the flotilla, spending a few more days than originally planned because of an expected gale. It was great to see them, especially after abandoning hope that we ever would.
Photo: Black Sea Flotilla in the marina at Odessa, Ukraine
Photo: Dick & Maureen (belowdeck) on Rainbow Ride; Marianne & Finn on Lovejoy
Photo: Helge & Benta on Great Dane; Brenda & Clive on Bellator
Photo: Coby & Leen on Aquabelle; Hazel & Ray on Triton on Osea
Photo: Hera & Gerald on Antares; Len & Jean on Moonbi
Photo: Ann & Rob Cornish, our "commodores" on Trucial Coast
Odessa is a vibrant city, full of activity and people enjoying themselves. As we sipped our coffee in the cockpit our first morning, there was a harbor festival taking place and we were treated to a helicopter airshow. Apparently, on this weekend all over the Ukraine, there were airshows taking place, a holdover from the Russian military presence here. We watched in awe as an old helicopter with counter-rotating propellers, dropped military men in parachutes and then picked them up again and thumped off.
Photo: Helicopter over the marina in Odessa
As soon as the airshow was over and we had greeted our friends, we walked in to explore the city. The route from the marina to the city required that we climb up the Potemkin steps - 192 steps and the shortest route to the city. We climbed these steps everyday, several times a day.
Photo: Tom, at the bottom of the Potemkin Steps, Odessa
Photo: Street sign, identifying Primorski Boulevard
We walked through the streets of Odessa, admiring the architecture, the monuments, the decorative style that is everywhere in this city whose building has been accomplished by great architects and artists.
Photo: Street scenes in Odessa
Odessa has a rich history of support for art, music, dance and literature. The Odessa Opera and Ballet Theatre runs performances six nights a week to a packed house. We bought tickets for Verdi's La Traviata for $6 US each for a box and thoroughly enjoyed it - even Tom, who only nodded off at the end.
Photo: The Odessa Opera and Ballet Theatre
The food in the Ukraine is delicious. We had a memorable Ukrainian meal of borsch, veal stuffed with hazelnuts and plums and served with steamed vegetables and salad, served by waitresses in traditional Ukrainian dress. The restaurant we chose was rather expensive by Ukraine standards, but the meal was still only $35 for two of us, including starters and wine.
Photo: Traditional Ukrainian dress
The many parks and squares in Odessa were filled with people. Artists and craftsmen displayed their wares for sale. Buskers played their instruments or sang and photographers would take your picture, often with their pet monkey, ferret, snake or lizard (we passed this up). There were many activities for children - carnival rides, pony rides, face painting, and craft making. Many of the bronze statues of famous statesmen and artists are posed in a way that invites people to sit with the statue for a photo. And Ukrainian (and American) people love to pose for and to take photos.
Photo: Tom spends a few minutes with friend, L.O. Utyosov
We enjoyed Odessa and stayed on for a few days after the flotilla left to go up the Bug river to Nikolyev. We planned to meet them at Cape Tendrov and on the appointed day, we were the first to arrive. As we approached the cape, we saw a Ukrainian Coast Guard ship anchored there. They motioned to us to come alongside and tie up. As we slowly came into position, we noticed that they were all in swim suits, except one young man who was hurriedly getting into his uniform. They then asked for our passports and itinerary. They were very interested in our boat, our history, our plans, what life is like in the U.S. and engaged us in conversation and toured our boat for the better part of an hour. We really enjoyed the time spent with them and before we cast off, they gave us several pounds of cooked shrimp that they had just caught. We took photos all around, but before we snapped our photos, two of the men put on their official jackets - leaving their swim suits on. We left a new American flag with them and went off to anchor just as the rest of the flotilla was arriving. During the night, they made frequent patrols of the anchorage in their dinghy, we believe to check on our safety, as there was a thunderstorm approaching.
Photo: Ukrainian Coast Guard Crew at Cape Tendrov
We left early the next morning and they waved as we sailed off on our way to Chernomoskye. We anchored for the night in the harbor where there were many Navy vessels moored as well as fishing boats. It was not an attractive harbor, and the water was thick with huge jellyfish. We saw the same jellyfish at Tendrov and were advised that they are not poisonous but that they do sting "a little". We noticed that the men on the Coast Guard boat did swim. We did not.
Photo: Jellyfish at Chernomoskye
But the people there were very friendly. The fisherman gave us enough fresh mussels and small conch-like shellfish to feed the entire flotilla and showed us how to cook the "conch" (for want of a more accurate word). The seafood was delicious and their friendship and generosity were very much appreciated by all of us.
Photo: Ukraine Naval vessels in the harbor at Chernomoskye
We left the next morning for the trip to Yevpatoria on the west coast of the Crimea. When we arrived, we anchored in the middle of the harbor and took the dinghy in to Customs and Immigration. The rest of the flotilla tied to the wall. The next morning, they peeled off, one by one, and anchored, having spent an uncomfortable night being yanked about by their mooring lines due to the surge against the quay. It was still rolly in the harbor, but at least we were not being yanked.
There was a small yacht club in the harbor and it was fun to watch the boats sail in and out on day trips. This is the first place where we have seen recreational boating.
Photo: Sailboat, "North Caroline" in Yevpatoria, Ukraine
In Yevpatoria, we went out to dinner with Len & Jean, Dick & Maureen to a large outdoor restaurant in a pretty garden setting, called Cafe Mustafa. We ordered our food with the help of Maureen's dictionary and the waiter nodded his understanding, although he spoke very little English. The food came and it was a complete surprise - not one of us got anything close to what we thought we had ordered. It was all good, just not what we were expecting. After dinner, there was a floor show with belly dancers and Cossack dancing. The costumes, dancing and music were very impressive. All of this, dinner and a show, cost us about $15 a couple! We love the Ukraine!
Das Vadanya - 73's, 88's, love & hugs-
Peg & Tom
aboard s/v Starboard Home
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