|
|
Trip Report # 7-2001: Delos and the DodecaneseFiled from Simi, Greece36 36.93N 027 51.39EOctober 8, 2001Yassos, Family & Friends:
Photo: Peg & Tom in Delos in the Greek Cyclades We left the anchorage at Paroikia, Paros, on a sunny, clear day with a 15 kt wind from the NW. The sail to Mykonos was only 24 miles in a northeasterly direction. As we got closer to Mykonos, the wind switched into the NE and began to build, so that by the time we were 8 miles from the island, we were in the teeth of a full meltemi, with 40 knots on the nose and seas of 3-3.5 meters coming over the bow - a "dry gale" with bright and sunny weather all around us. By this time we had only a small amount of mainsail out and the staysail and were sailing well, although getting doused every now and then. However, the short, steep waves, which we often see in the Mediterranean, had a tendency to slow our forward progress considerably. When we were about 4 miles from shore, we added a little power assistance from the engine to get through the chop and into the protection of the lee of the shore. As we approached the shore, Peg went below to check our course to our intended destination, the Ormos Ornos. While she was checking the electronic chart on the computer, water came running out of a vent (which we don't ordinarily close) overhead near the navigation station. Because of our angle of heel, the seawater splashed directly onto the laptop. Shortly thereafter, the screen went blank and the computer could not be coaxed to restart. Fortunately, we still had our GPS and paper charts and pilot, and we were back in business with dead reckoning. We went into the nearest bay with protection from all directions north and anchored. The bay was wide open to the south, but we were not concerned. The meltemi, high winds generated by the difference in high pressure over the Balkans and low pressure over Turkey, usually blows for several days at a time and always from a northerly direction. The wind continued to blow at 30-40 knots for 2 more days. We could not even hang laundry out to dry without buttoning and zippering items onto the laundry line, for fear of having it blown away. Tom spent one of those days getting our second computer hooked up and connected to our radio and GPS so that we could once again navigate using the electronic charts and we could again get our email and weather information. The experience reinforced our opinion that it is important to have the ability to do things in more than one way, to have redundant systems, and to have important spares on board. When the wind finally moderated to 20 knots, we weighed anchor and sailed to Delos. The island of Delos was an important center of trade and sanctuary with evidence of human habitation dating back to the 3rd millennium B.C. It owed it's development not only to its' geographical position in the middle of the Cyclades, but to the fact that it was the birthplace of Apollo and retained a revered status throughout Greek antiquity. Systematic excavations, which continue today, were started by the French in 1873; and between 1902 and 1914, the sanctuary of Apollo, a large part of the city, was revealed. The sight of the ruins is very extensive and the scale and grandeur of the ancient city is very impressive. Cruising vessels are able to anchor near the island of Delos until 3 pm, long enough to visit and tour the island. But at 3 pm, all boats are expected to leave the island and this is strictly enforced.
Photo: The Teatro at Delos
Photo: Tom waits for the play to begin at Delos
Photo: The Terrace of the Lions on Delos
Photo: The Palace of Hermes
Photo: Mosaic detail in the House of Traina
Photo: Peg tries to decipher Greek writing in the House of Cleopatra On September 25 we motor sailed the 55 miles to Patmos, the northernmost island in the Dodecanese or Southern Sporades. The Dodecanese are twelve islands that curve along the Turkish coast and west toward Crete. We caught up with friends we met in Malta, Vicky and Rick on Ghost Boat, and we met Joan and Paul on Incognito. All of us shared a pleasant meal that evening in one of the many restaurants on the harbor front.
Photo: Rick & Vicky leave early in the morning from Patmos
Photo: Joan & Paul, Incognito, on Patmos On Patmos, we visited St. John's cave, where it is thought that he wrote the revelation of the apocalypse after hearing the voice of God, and toured the monastery of St. John.
Photo: Peg & Tom, still pretty chipper after the climb to the summit, at the monastery of St. John the Divine, Patmos (Not all tourists fared as well!) We left Patmos and sailed to Leros in a northeast wind, Force 5-6. The entrance to the bay at Ormos Lakki, Leros, is not evident until you come up close to it. It's fairly narrow and there are high cliffs on each side, but once inside, the big bay widens out as you approach the town on the far end. There is a marina here, but there is also plenty of room to anchor with good holding. As we came close to the town to anchor, we saw a beautiful Swan 57, "Valkyrie", with an American flag flying and the hailing port of Asheville, N.C. It was a real delight to meet the young couple sailing Valkyrie and we've had lots of good times with them since then. Ryan is an electrical engineer who is taking a break from a job writing software for computer games and graphics. Tamra is from Iowa and had a great job (which she misses) in public relations. They enjoy movies, have lots of DVDs and videos on board and we got to watch a couple of really good movies with them. We call them "the kids".
Photo: Watching a movie with Tam and Ryan on "Valkyrie"
Photo: Valkyrie enroute from Leros to Kos The island of Kos was a marina stop for us. We hadn't been in a marina since Corfu and the boat needed a good rinsing. We try to get the salt off the boat by wiping it off with the dew in the mornings, but in a climate where there is very little rain (only once this entire summer), a good rinse with a hose periodically is necessary. The marina at Kos had good showers, laundry, internet access, good chandleries, a handy market and cost $17 a night including water and electricity. While at Kos, we toured the ruins of the ancient fortress, used and added to by the Knights of St. John during the 14th century.
Photo: Fortress of the Knights of St. John, Kos We also got to see the Plane tree under which Hippocrates supposedly taught his students.
Photo: The Plane tree of Hippocrates As we traveled through the Greek Islands, we were impressed by the number and frequency and variety of ferries that run among all the islands and to Athens. Greece is a very good place to have guests come to visit, since it is not necessary to sail back to Athens or another airport to leave departing guests. Guests can always get a ferry to the airport location.
Photo: High speed hydrofoil, one of many ferries in the Greek Islands Our next stop was the island of Simi, our last stop in Greece. We arrived in the harbor of Pethi, in a beautiful fjord with a small village of stately venetian-style buildings and homes at the foot of high mountains.
Photo: The waterfront at Pethi, Simi
Photo: Eucalyptus trees line the road, from Pethi to Simi From this peaceful and beautiful harbor, we could take a bus (cost: 200 drachmas or $.50US) or walk 2 km. into the main town of Simi. Simi is a quaint village with a nice harbor, somewhat touristy, but uncrowded and pleasant away from the harbor. Our friends on Arriba, Mac and Rosie, sailed into Pethi with guests aboard and we had a great reunion with them. On our last night in Pethi, we enjoyed a very nice get-together aboard Valkyrie with Arriba and with new friends, Ross & Wai on Gemini, and Debra and David on Watermusic.
Photo: Waterfront at Simi We have made a decision to continue our cruise as planned and go to Turkey. We sail tomorrow for Datca to check into Turkish customs and obtain our visa and cruising log. 73s,88s, love and hugs Peg and Tom
|
|
Grand Daughters' web pages: Anna's Home Page, Anastasia's Home Page Isabelle's Home Page
|
