|
|
Trip Report #5-2001: The PeloponneseFiled from Mykonos, Greece37 37.1N 025 19.6ESeptember 24, 2001
Yassos, Family and Friends:
Photo: Exploring the castle at Methoni in the Peloponnese We left the Ionian islands behind, setting sail from Andisamos Bay on Cefalonia at 5a.m. on September 3 and sailed all the way on a close reach to our first stop in the Peloponnese, Katakolon. Katakolon is a big harbor with many cruise ships coming and going, bringing tourists to see the site of the first Olympic games at the village of Olympia, a 30 km. bus or taxi ride from the harbor. We dropped our stern anchor and tied bow-to the quay, congratulating ourselves for having accomplished a good mooring (using this technique) for the second time. The quay we tied to was perpendicular to a long jetty where there were two enormous cruise ships moored. We were immediately approached by taxi drivers wanting to take us to Olympia, but we convinced them that, since it was already late in the day, we would go the next day. We then took a walk into the town and found an internet cafe to order a gift for a grandchild's upcoming birthday. (Incidentally, the internet is really a very helpful shopping tool when you're out of the US.) Tom went back to the boat to get a credit card and returned in a concerned state with instructions for me to "hurry it up - we have to get out of here". Apparently, as Tom was approaching the boat, the cruise ship closest to us began the process of leaving the dock. Moving sideways off the dock caused no problem (they have both bow and stern side thrusters). But when the ship's forward propellers were set in motion, the water in the harbor where we were moored was unbelievably agitated. The back wash from the ship's propellers caused a twenty to thirty knot current to be directed toward our boat. The anchor rode on our stern anchor, attached to 30 feet of chain, apparently had too much stretch in it. It was inadequate to hold the boat and Starboard Home was being pushed onto the stone quay and heeled onto neighboring boats. Tom and our friendly taxi drivers did their best to keep our boat and others from being damaged, but it was requiring all the strength of quite a number of them. Tom finally hopped on the boat and started the engine, using it to help keep us out of danger until the cruise ship finally left. We picked up the anchor and left the quay and tied to a finger pier at an unfinished marina on the other side of the harbor. Tom immediately proceeded to put a 3/4" rode on the stern anchor, one with a lot less stretch, although harder to handle at the stern, than the original rode. We have had no other problems with it, but we are very careful about mooring in a harbor that has a cruise ship in it.
Photo: Starboard Home in Katakolon, after her shaking up The next morning we awoke to find a dredging barge almost completely taking up the space between the finger piers at the opening to the dock to which we were tied. Since it wasn't yet settled in its' final position and there was a little room for us to squeeze out, we asked the crew to hold up for a few minutes and let us depart. We left in record time, before our morning coffee and dressed in a very unnautical style - I in pajamas and Tom in his BVDs! We decided that we did not really need to see Olympia after all and would continue sailing to the next, hopefully less exciting port. We sailed all the way to Pilos and anchored in the Ormos (bay) Navarinou, arriving there in late afternoon. This very large bay is surrounded by huge cliffs on one side. The movie, "The Guns of Navarrone" was filmed here and those cliffs seemed very familiar when we sailed into the bay.
Photo: The cliffs in the Ormos Navarinou, Pilos on the Peloponnese Pilos is a pleasant town with an ancient fort guarding the entrance to the bay on the town side. The town is not a tourist town but a community with all the shops and services needed by the people who live there. And no cruise ships. We found a computer store, rather than an internet cafe, that had a room attached to it with many computer terminals, used for teaching purposes. The internet connection was very good and the cost to us was 1000 drachmas per hour (~$2.50US), which we have found to be the going rate in Greece. We then stocked up on fresh fruits and veggies and good bread and made our way back to the boat. The bay is several miles long and we had anchored in the northwest corner, quite far from the town, but safe in the coming blustery weather. The weather forecast was for Force 7 from the northwest and it was absolutely correct. After a spectacular thunder storm, it blew 30 + knots for the next 2 days. We spent the time doing boat jobs and catching up on correspondence. This was the only time this summer that we were to have rain.
Photo: ruins of the ancient fort at Pilos on the Peloponnese We then made our way to the delightful port of Methoni, on the southern tip of the 1st finger of the Peloponnese. There we spent a few hours exploring the extensive ruins of an ancient castle and settlement.
Photo: The castle at Methoni, Peloponnese We ate that evening in a great family-run restaurant. The owner escorted us back into the kitchen to look at what was being prepared and to make our selections. The food was great; the wine, locally made by the family, was not so great; the venue and hospitality were terrific.
Photo: the harbor at Methoni, viewed from the
castle, Starboard We left early the next morning, September 8, for Kayio.
Photo: Leaving Methoni enroute to Kayio Kayio is on the southern tip of the 2nd finger of the Peloponnese and is a little fishing harbor. The wind was blowing about 25-30 knots from the northwest with strong gusts coming down the high cliffs lining the shore. It was very difficult to get our main anchor, a 60-lb. CQR, to hold there, as there was very little sand over rock. We got our 54-lb. Fisherman anchor out and it held in the rocks. We then watched in sympathy as 2 British boats, a Swiss boat and an Italian boat spent what seemed like hours getting the hook to bite. Sometime after midnight, the wind calmed to a sedate 20 kts and we had a comfortable night. We again left early the next morning and sailed to Elfonisos where we anchored in Ormos Levki, a small bay with a beach and water and sand that reminded us very much of the Bahamas. The water was crystal clear and green to turquoise. We did, however, have to once again use the Fisherman to get a hold on the rocky bottom. There has been no absence of wind here in the Peloponnese. The sailing has been excellent. The harbors we have sailed into are much less "tourist-oriented", more rural, less crowded, mostly fishing villages. There is not a lot to do or see, so we went through the area pretty quickly. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the unique character and the quietude of the Peloponnese. We are now on our way to the Cyclades: first stop, Mylos. Yassos - 73s ,88s, and hugs all around, Peg and Tom on s/v Starboard Home
|
|
Grand Daughters' web pages: Anna's Home Page, Anastasia's Home Page Isabelle's Home Page
|
