|
|
Trip Report # 3-2001: Northern Ionian IslandsFiled from Nidri, Levkas, Greece38 42.12 N 020 42.68August 26, 2001
Photo: Tom tacks to windward in the Straits of Ithaca We are cruising in the Ionian islands, seven lush and green islands off the western coast of Greece. Olive groves and vineyards cover these islands and, while many of the harbors we visited are quite touristy, there are still so many areas where we found quiet, roomy anchorages and scenic places to get away to see the "real Greece" We anchored the first night in Greece in End Bay in Mourtos, a popular vacation area on the mainland, with beaches, bars, several small coves, a few resort hotels and lots of day-tripper boats. In End Bay, the quietiest of all the bays on Mourtos, we shared the anchorage with only 3 other boats. On our way out the next morning, however, a fleet of 8 small charter boats came sailing in, following their leader like a gaggle of geese. This was a sight we were to see quite often, as there is quite a bit of chartering, and chartering in fleets, in Greece, particularly in August. Photo: Harbor and citadel at Corfu, Greece We spent almost a week in Corfu, the largest of the Ionian islands. Other cruisers had mentioned to us that checking into Customs in Corfu was somewhat difficult, because there was really no place to tie up to the quay, most of the space being taken by ferry and cruise ships that came and went frequently. Others had told us that the Transit Log, required for all boats cruising in Greece and good for 6 months and renewable, could cost $150-200 US. We were very fortunate. We found a place along the wall to tie up and Peg stayed with the boat while Tom walked to the Dogana (Customs) office with the papers. We would not have enjoyed staying on that wall for very long, as there was a lot of prop wash and wake from the large ships that made staying there unsafe as well as uncomfortable and necessitated much fending off. But it was only about half an hour before Tom was back with our Transit Log. It cost us 10,000 drachmas, about $25 US , and we were instructed that we would need to come back to customs to clear out when we left Corfu, which we did. When we cleared out, we had our dinghy in the water. It was a relatively easy process then for Tom to get into the dinghy and go into the Customs office, while Peg did circles outside of the harbor. The customs officials were very gracious and efficient and Tom was retrieved with no problems. The Transit Log is then kept on the boat and produced when officials at various ports ask for it. We have only been asked for it once since then and it cost us 2000 drachma, about $5 US to get it properly stamped. Most of our time in Corfu was spent at anchor north of the marina at Gouvia. We could leave our dinghy in the marina, use the marina facilities, including the pool, supermarket, shops and laundry, and take a bus into the city. We did spend 2 nights in the marina while the wind blew Force 7. The cost was not quite $25 US per night and included water and electricity. The city of Corfu in August is hot, dusty, crowded and a mecca for tourists. It was at its' most alluring at night. Jim and Sandy, our friends on Erin O'Lyrr, took a bus ride into the city with us and walked through the old town. We found a restaurant and had our first Greek meal in a lovely setting and then walked around the bastions of the old citadel overlooking the harbor. Photo: Tom & Peg, Jim & Sandy at dinner in Corfu The four of us also rented a car in Corfu and had a hair-raising ride through unguarded narrow mountain coastal roads with breathtaking views. Photo: Jim & Sandy Fitzgerald, "Erin O'Lyrr" on a Corfu mountaintop Photo: Tom & Peg in Corfu We drove high up into the Pantokratoras mountains, enjoyed the view and toured an old monastery, now being renovated. In order to participate in the tour, Peg, who was wearing shorts, was required to don one of the cotton skirts provided by the monastery staff.
Photo: Peg in proper attire for the monastery tour - tres chic! On August 17th, we motored in calm winds and haze to the island of Paxos and took a tour of the harbor at Gaios, the main port. Gaios is a lively port with lots of activity along the waterfront and one can drop an anchor and tie bow- or stern-to the wall. The ferry dock is at the entrance to the harbor and ferries come and go frequently, causing only minimal problems with wake in the harbor. We elected to go a little farther south and anchor in the small, protected bay of Mongonisi. There is a taverna and bar ashore, and on Friday night, there was live music and Greek circle dancing, which made for lively entertainment, and ended at midnight. Photo: One of the ferries at Gaios, Paxos Photo: Starboard Home at anchor in Monganisi, Paxos Paxos is noted for the olive oil it produces and it is reported that the only olive oil that Harrod's in London will sell is that which is produced on Paxos. We were almost out of olive oil, anyway, so we bought some - five gallons for $25 US - so, no real bargain. But hopefully, it will be good. Photo: Purchasing olive oil on Paxos After leaving Paxos, we motored to Parga on the mainland of Greece, only 11 miles away, enough to charge our batteries. Parga is a pretty town at the foot of a mountain with lots of beach, lots of people, paddleboats, parasailing, and motor boats. We took a water taxi into the town at a cost of 900 drachmas round trip per person, or a total of not quite $5 US. We walked through the shops in town and then had dinner at a roof-top cafe, shaded by grape leaves. Dinner included a delicious eggplant salad, white cheese salad, moussaka and fried squid, bread and a very nice local wine for 5500 drachmas, about $13 US.
Photo: Dinner in Parga under the grapevines We left the next morning, after a very rolly night, and sailed to Levkas. The swing bridge at the entrance to the canal at Levkas opened on the hour, allowing boats to pass in a two-way traffic stream with no problem. Once past the town of Levkas, the ride through the canal was pleasant and somewhat reminiscent of the ICW at home. The canal opened into a beautiful large bay with mountains all around it. We sailed into Tranquil Bay across from the town of Nidri and spent several days at anchor there. When Tranquil Bay became a little crowded, we moved farther into a larger bay, called Ormos Vlikho, where the depth was 7-9 meters throughout, with good holding in mud. The dinghy ride into Nidri was about 2 km., but took no time at all in our high-speed Apex rib dinghy. We love that dinghy. The town of Nidri caters to tourists. It is a base for charter boats, ferries, and day-trip boats that take people around the island of Skorpios, the Onassis family island nearby. It is also a fairly good place to find groceries, ice, fresh fruits and vegetables. We also found a good internet cafe at the Cafe Athos with fast, reliable connections for 1000 drachma/ hour. Bill, the owner, was very helpful when Tom was searching for information and found it written in Greek. Tomorrow, we will be heading for Ithaka to see the palace of Odysseus and then on to Cephalonia. Yassos! 73's, 88's and hugs all around! Peg & Tom s/v Starboard Home
|
|
Grand Daughters' web pages: Anna's Home Page, Anastasia's Home Page Isabelle's Home Page
|
