Trip Report #10-2000:Tunisia and Malta

Our decision would be based on:

	Availability of good haulout equipment and a solid hardstand
	Availability of knowledgeable people to consult and work with to apply a new epoxy barrier coat on the bottom of the boat
	Good chandlers and boat supplies in the area
	Availability of an accredited surveyor capable of supplying information that our insurance company requires
	Reasonable fees
	Good security
	Opportunity for sightseeing and availability of cultural events and other amusements, and
	Opportunity for social interaction with other cruisers.

On September 24, we left San Vito lo Capo, Sicily, motoring in calm seas with no wind and decided to anchor at Pantellaria, a small island about half way between Sicily and Tunisia. We needed to take a break from listening to the motor, and we wanted to catch a short nap before continuing on our way. We also wanted to delay our arrival in Tunisia so we could enter the port in daylight. We no sooner anchored at Scouri, when a thunderstorm came up with high winds, heavy rain, and poor visibility. We were quite happy to be anchored, but kept a careful watch on the anchor until the storm passed.

As we approached the coast of Tunisia the next morning, we were surprised to see patches of greenery and lots of white apartment buildings and hotels along the shore.

PHOTO: APPROACHING EL KANTAOUI, TUNISIA

It all looked very modern, tidy and prosperous. We negotiated our way into the port through a well-marked channel and were welcomed by the polizia, who directed us to customs and the marina office. The marina was very nice with restaurants and souvenir shops along the promenade on the water's edge. When we ventured out of the marina, we found that there was no town around the port, but we could ride into the nearest city, Sousse, 25 minutes away on a tuk-tuk. A tuk-tuk is similar to a golf cart, but carries 6 people and is just powerful enough to travel on the highway.  

A trip to the Medina in Sousse is like a trip back in time. The narrow winding streets in the old citadel are a real maze. There were vendors hawking their wares from small stores or stalls tucked into the walls of the old roofed mall-like bazaar. Shopping here is an adventure and one is expected to haggle until a mutually agreeable price is reached.

    
PHOTO: THE BAZAAR IN THE MEDINA AT SOUSSE

There were three grocery stores at the port, but none of them had a good supply of fresh vegetables. We did, however, find vegetable vendors and a good assortment of produce, meat and fish at the shops in the Medina. A source of frustration for Tom was his inability to find any chandlers. We did find one small shop where he was able to buy stainless steel screws, but very little else.

      
       PHOTO: TOM SHOPPING IN SOUSSE
 

PHOTO: TOM SHOPPING (AND REHYDRATING) IN SOUSSE

PHOTO: PEG SHOPPING IN SOUSSE

The Capitaine of the port, Chafik Rziga, was a young man who was so very helpful to us.

PHOTO: CAPITAINE CHAFIK RZIGA, PORT OF EL KANTAOUI, TUNISIA

There were no available cyber cafes and he let Tom use his office and internet connection nearly every day at no charge. He introduced us to people who would be able to work on the boat and who could answer questions we had about the process of applying the epoxy barrier coat we needed. When we left El Kantaoui at 3am, the Capitaine was there to drive us over to check out at the customs office and to say goodbye to us! Thanks Chafik!

We covered the 206 miles to Malta in 28 hours, averaging over 7 kts and sailing all the way with the wind on the port quarter. When we arrived at the Customs Dock in Msida Creek in Valletta Harbor, we were so pleasantly surprised to see Chris and Allen, from Skittles, pedal up the quay on their bikes. They will be wintering in Malta and arrived here ahead of us. It is indeed a small world of cruising sailors.

PHOTO: DOME AND BELL TOWER OF A CHURCH FROM MANOEL ISLAND, MALTA AT SUNRISE

We like Malta very much. It is an island that is RICH in history and culture. The Maltese people are so very kind and helpful. And there is so much to do here. It really is a great place to spend the winter. We went to an audiovisual presentation of the history of Malta, called "The Malta Experience", which is an excellent introduction to the island. We then took one of the ubiquitous Malta buses to Mdina, the old capital of the island, first colonized by the Romans. The Malta buses are owned by the drivers and often have a slogan.
 

 
          PHOTO: MALTA BUS
 

PHOTO: THE GREEKS GATE TO THE CITY OF MDINA, MALTA

The narrow winding lanes of the city were built to keep the city cool and to confuse the enemy during the many invasions experienced by the inhabitants of the city.

     
 PHOTO: NARROW STREETS IN MDINA, MALTA

We have also taken the bus into Valletta, the capital city since the victory against the Turks in the Great Siege of 1565. Built by the Knights as a fortress, it is actually one of the first "planned" cities in Europe. Interesting sites in Valletta include St. Paul's Co-Cathedral, some of the original auberges that housed the knights, the Grand Master's Palace, and the Museum of Archeology.
 

  
     PHOTOS: AUGERGE DE CASTILE ET LEON

Since we have been here, there have been a number ofmusical events - a presentation by a boys' choir, a presentation of Mendolsohn's "Paulus" in the St. Paul's Co-cathedral, with a performance by the National Symphonic Orchestra of Malta. And Bizet's opera, "Carmen" will be presented at the Manoel Theatre (unfortunately, we will be back home by then and will miss it).

We've also done some regular things - things we might do at home. There is a large multiplex theatre in St. Julian's, just a bus ride away and we have seen several movies. We've been out on Wednesday evenings to a "quiz night" at a nearby English-style pub - a lot like Trivial Pursuit played by teams and lots of fun. We can also get some magazines, like Business Week, and newspapers, like USA Today, that we have not seen in recent months. There are some good novels and books about Malta: The Kapillon of Malta, by Nicholas Monserrat; The Great Seige, by Ernie Bradford; Seige: Malta 1940-43, also by Bradford.

We are not really fond of the food in Malta, but perhaps we were spoiled by the great food and wine in Italy. We have however, found a great little French restaurant here, called Chez Phillipe, that only serves dinner on Friday nights. We also had a terrific lunch buffet al fresco at the Royal Malta Yacht Club, which is on the bastion at Manoel Island and overlooks the Marsamxett Harbour and provides a good view of Valletta

   
PHOTOS: VALLETTA AND THE ENTRANCE TO MARSAMXETT HARBOR FROM THE ROYAL MALTA YACHT CLUB ON MANOEL ISLAND